ÜHEKSA - LIEGE

9

LIEGE, BELGIUM

AUGUST 2021

The Beer Lovers' Marathon in Belgium

It's no secret that Belgians love to drink beer. Today, over 300 breweries are operating in Belgium. But they have been brewing beer in the country already since the Roman era, and the first account of Belgian beer was recorded in 974 when the bishop of Liège was granted the right to sell it. Liège also boasts one of Belgium's largest breweries, so it's no wonder that the annual marathon for beer enthusiasts, the great sports fest called the Beer Lovers' Marathon is hosted in no place other than in this lovely, French-speaking city.

The main goal of this race isn't to improve one's personal best, but rather to have fun running with your friends and acquaintances. But to be fair, besides beer tasting, you still have to run a little bit or, more precisely, 195 metres and 42 kilometres.

There was an exception this year where you could choose whether you run a half marathon or marathon, resulting from the adjustments on the route carried out by Mother Nature. It was only a month and a half before the marathon when the Netherlands, Belgium and Germany were hit by heavy floods. Among others, Liège was also among the impacted, so the organisers should be applauded for not cancelling the event, as they decided to offer two products instead of one. Due to the floods, the prepared route couldn't be fully used anymore, so you had to run the same course of 21 km twice. Everyone who felt as if 42 kilometres was too much could put themselves to test at a distance half the length. What struck me as an especially nice gesture on behalf of the organisers, was that all the proceeds from the event were donated to the victims of the floods.

Now to be completely honest, I should have participated (drank beer) in the Beer Lovers' Marathon already in the spring of 2020, but it was put off until the autumn of the same year due to the COVID-19 pandemic. Unfortunately, the pandemic showed no signs of easing, but rather took a turn for the worse, therefore the marathon was postponed indefinitely. In spring 2021, the long-awaited e-mail finally came, announcing that the Beer Lovers' Marathon would take place on August 20, 2021. Truthfully, it was only after I arrived in Belgium that I could be sure it was indeed happening.

Participating in marathons abroad is exciting in that you can visit places where you've never been before or you might also have the chance to run in one of your favourite cities. I've been fortunate as I've been able to run a marathon in three of my favourite cities: Tokyo, Paris and New York. However, given the current pandemic, it's easy to feel a bit anxious because you can never be too sure whether the planes will fly on your dates or if you're allowed in a country without having to stay in quarantine. Luckily, there were no more obstacles on my way, and two days before the race day I was in Brussels, ready to take the train to Liège on the following day.

Liège welcomed us with its majestic Gare de Liège-Guillemins railway station, which is also included in the top tourist attractions of the city. It truly was an architectural masterpiece. Big, white, airy, spacious, words aren't enough. Anyway, the reception was promising.

Gare de Liège-Guillemins

I try to make sure to book a hotel room as close to the start as possible whenever I travel for races so that I wouldn't have to spend too much energy on getting there in the morning. This time, I did especially well. The railway station, hotel and start/finish with the Beer Lovers Village were all within 100 metres. A quick check-in to the hotel and the sports fest may begin.

There was a big circus tent set up right next to the railway station and the start area because the theme of the marathon was Circus. When we got there, the party was already in full swing. Everyone who showed their Covid Safe Ticket could join the festivities, it didn't matter if you were a runner or a friend of a runner. In the Beer Village, you also received your number, t-shirt and beer belt with a beer cup attached to it. The organisers decided not to use single-use cups to prevent waste overload.

Therefore, you were provided with a personal cup for water and beer to take with you on the race! You could attach your race number to the belt as well. What a clever idea. No pins that leave holes in your clothes.

In the Beer Village, you could choose from 32 different beers, try out the food truck, and enjoy the various bands and DJs, who performed all night. We left this dance marathon around midnight to get some rest before the race. Since the hotel was only a stone's throw away from the Beer Village, there was no choice but to fall asleep to drum and bass.

There was no need for an alarm clock since we could hear the opening of the race day blasting through the loudspeakers already at the crack of dawn. I didn't have to worry about sleeping in this time around. A quick breakfast and within a few minutes after leaving the hotel, we are at the hustling and bustling Beer Village.

All runners were in costumes and I was literally the only one in regular running clothes.

I solemnly promised myself that I wouldn't run another themed marathon if I didn't wear a costume.

Some aerobics to warm-up before the race begins, and at 9 a.m. sharp, the siren goes off.

Some examples of running shoes style.

The first beer station arrives already after the first kilometre. So I went and tried out the booze from the brewers of La Bestiale. The posters tell you how many kilometres there is until the next pit stop. Just like the markers on a highway indicating the number of kilometres until the next chance to fuel. There's 3 km to go until the next gas stop (beer tasting).

After a short break, I follow the tail of the AC/DC tigers and head towards the next beer station.

AC/DC Tigers

The weather was great for running and I was enjoying myself, but then we approached the stairs along which we had to run, or should I say walk, to the top. At least the circus artists I was running alongside with all took it easy on the steps. I had briefly examined the profile of the route beforehand, and it did indicate a small hill. Reaching the top, I was relieved that it wasn't that bad, but what I didn't know was that this small hill was only the foot of the mountain.

Once you've climbed a hill, you also need to go down, and so I ran downhill along the rainy, wet cobblestone roads.

The beer stations were the only checkpoints on the course, and I was about to reach the 4 km beer station where the runners were offered nectar from Lutgarde and some other treats.

And then I reached a wall. A wall of stairs called Montagne de Bueren.

Montagne de Bueren is a staircase of 374 steps, receiving its name after Vincent de Bueren, who defended the city of Liège against an attack by the Duke of Burgundy, Charles de Bold, in the 15th century. The staircase was built in 1881 to honour the soldiers who lost their lives in the battle.

Seen from the foot, it seems impossible to conquer these stairs, yet from the top, the views are irresistible.

However, this was not the end of conquering heights.

When I was struggling uphill, I thought with dread about having to do this again the second time around. It isn't like I came here to conquer Mount Everest, no, I came to a beer marathon, where you should be having fun, but instead I was in pain.

Finally making it to the top, I drank about a litre of water to compensate for the loss of fluid I had left behind on these stairs. And I tried out the beer as well. I celebrated the 5 km with beer from La Redoutable.

The band was playing and everyone was in good spirits. It feels like I was the only one who had difficulties with this massive staircase.

When my pulse went back to normal, I continued running and was rewarded with a pleasant run in a fairy tale forest.

A circus tent wanted to pass me as I was taking photos, but I wasn't going to be that lame to have a tent pass me in a race.

And then I reached a viewpoint, where it seemed as if the whole city was in the palm of a hand. I came to realise that all of my efforts are worth it because the emotions you experience on the course are priceless.

Finally a drink station. I'm at 8,5 km and it's time to try out beer from Val-Dieu.

And there's the tent again!

The course took me through a slightly duller area in the outskirts, so much so that the 12 km along the flat surface passed unnoticed, and then we were greeted by another brewery called Cuvée des Trolls, which has a label with a small, sharp-nosed troll wearing a green cap.

It was one of my favourites and by the looks of it, it seems like others enjoyed it as well because everyone seemed to linger a while longer here in this stop.

The road winded along the riverbank back towards the city centre, and I'm about to reach 14 km, ready to taste the beer from Chimay.

Everyone is having fun and the beer is good. It seems like no one is in a rush. No rush for me neither because I came here to have fun, not run for my life.

The next beer stop is Sainte Nitouche.

A smile on my face, I approach the drink station offering beer from La Chouffe. I've run 20 and a half kilometres by now.

They can really brew some fine booze, I gotta say. What also deserves mentioning is that La Chouffe has received several awards, for example, first places at Montreal International Beer Competition and World Beer Championship.

Everyone is having a ball.

I start running again and soon I'll be halfway through. I have to repeat the same route once more. Even though my feet are already tired and I'm really not looking forward to climbing these horrible stairs again, I still didn't have the temptation to make the turn towards the finish and receive my half-marathon medal.

I'm about to approach the next beer station soon enough. I'm at 22 km and it's time to taste a craft beer from Brussels Beer Project. I wouldn't have minded staying a while longer in that stand-up bar, but the race was limited to a maximum time of 6.30 hours, and the wrist on my watch suggested I should keep running if I wanted to cross the finish line in time.

At 25 km, runners are offered beer named 5.G. The party is in full swing. The DJ is playing music and the famous Belgian waffles are handed around.

In the company of carefree and joyous people, I manage to momentarily forget that, in a small bit, I have to retake these endless stairs.

Step by step, one foot after the other, I walk to the top of the hill. I rest every once in a while because my pulse is going through the roof. And then, nearly 100-year-old gentleman passes me by. For a moment it seems like I'm hallucinating because someone that old cannot possibly climb this huge staircase as briskly as that. I'm too low on energy to keep up with this centenarian. This climbing up the stairs really isn't my thing.

At last, I reach the top, then I down a litre of water yet again to make up for the fluid loss trudging uphill. This time, it is the delicious beer from Grain D'Orge to keep us going. The ham and smoked sausage go down a treat on a light stomach. I'm at 26 km, and it will only get easier because the course continues downhill at first.

The Beer Lovers' Marathon isn't a party reserved for the runners only as the residents of the city have also gathered on the streets to take part in this festive atmosphere. The starving runners were offered grilled sausage. I should add, just in case, that I pass this 100-year-old gentleman just before the lunch stop, but while I'm busy savouring, he passes me again, but I manage to catch up with him before the next beer station.

Speaking of it, the next stop is at 30 km where the runners can help themselves to booze from Bertinchamps. The party is on, the DJ is playing good music. I meet the old gentleman one last time as he runs past the fluid station without stopping. I chill out for a while longer. I never saw him again, though I heard from my friend Kristel that he had crossed the finish line slightly before I did

The race is slowly coming to an end, and I'm all of a sudden at the 33 km mark, where the beer from Lupulus is up for tasting. Another brewery with a beautiful story. It derives its name from Humulus lupus, which is Latin for hop. Lupulus however means a small wolf. That's why the label on the bottle pictures a small wolf surrounded by hops.

Did I really encounter Conchita Wurst disguised as David Copperfield?

This cunning man of muscles has carved a hole through a dumbbell so that it would be more comfortable to carry the beer cup with him.

I'm at 35 km and Belgium Peak Beer is waiting to be tried out. The closer I get to the finish line, the better the beer tastes. Or have they left the best for last on purpose?

I'm at 40 km and a nice cool brewski is awaiting me from a craft brewery called Tripick, which is founded by three friends. Tripick is also an internationally acclaimed brewery, with several prizes from World Beer Awards under its belt.

I'm super hungry, but luckily there's a food truck offering crispy fries to the famished runners. Fries and beer, what a wonderful combination!

The last beer station arrives at 41.7 km, just before the finish line, and we're offered craft beer called Leopold 7. The orchestra is blaring and people are partying. This sports fest will be over in no time, so let's enjoy it while it lasts.

Every decent restaurant always has dessert on the menu, so let's delight in the ice cream.

And I've made it to the finish! A gold medal is put around my neck and I'm so happy to have completed another marathon successfully.

And now, let's party!

But unfortunately, only the racers are allowed to enter the after-party at the Beer Village. How can I sneak in my friend Kristel, who took the role of a bystander this time? She was welcome in the tent before the race, but now that it's over that's no longer the case. You just have to be clever. I gave her my gold medal to wear around her neck, and it was enough for me to get in if I showed my race number. I hope the organisers don't mind this, but I couldn't deprive my friend of all the festivities as she had come thousands of kilometres – namely, 2,193 km – from home to be here with me.

There was so much more to the Beer Lovers' Marathon than just the 42 kilometres and 195 metres. It was like a big family celebration. All the small breweries had their own interesting story to tell and they shared it with all the runners. All the participants gave their best, and everyone will surely remember this marathon for a long time to come. Oh! I nearly forgot. In addition to the hospitality offered, the French-speaking people are also very polite. We all know that when you drink lots of beer, you will occasionally let out a beer burp. But as I mentioned, the French-speaking people are very polite, so that a small burp was always followed by an apologetic, „Pardon!“.

It's time for me to say goodbye to Liège and travel back to Brussels. Belgium is also famous for its chocolate and you can encounter these lovely small chocolate boutiques nearly on every street in the Old Town of Brussels. This great love for chocolate traces back to 1635 when chocolate first arrived in Belgium, but it only grew popular in the middle of the 18th century, especially in the form of hot chocolate. Even today, the famous chocolate companies are strict to follow the traditional recipes of their products. Lots of companies also produce handcrafted chocolate. Chocolate does play an important role in the economy of Belgium, as they produce 172,000 tons of chocolate each year. By the way, it should be noted that praline is the invention of the Belgium chocolate factory.

If you're in Brussels, you must visit Manneken Pis, or 'Little Pissing Man'. This bronze sculpture of merely 61 cm is the most well-known symbol of Brussels, embodying the locals' sense of humour and independence of the mind. Whether the sculpture was put in place in 1618 or 1619 remains unknown. The sculpture on display today is a replica from 1965, whereas the original is kept in the Brussels City Museum.

Manneken Pis is dressed in various costumes several times a week. Each year, hundreds of designs are reviewed with the suitable ones selected out. The costume change is a very colourful ceremony and is frequently accompanied by brass band music. In addition to the many historical and national costumes, Manneken Pis has also been disguised as a Mickey Mouse and Santa Claus. This time, he was wearing a doctor's uniform to honour medical workers.

A couple of spirited photos of Brussels, and it's time to fly back home.